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WRECK DIVING IN MARITIME ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES IN BASSES REEF IN SRI LANKA (Compiled by Sri Lanka Navy Wreck Divers)
       
Introduction
During the recent past number of Maritime Archaeology Projects were launched by Archaeology Department and Central Cultural Fund (CCF) of Sri Lanka. Most of these projects were funded by UNESCO.

Even though, Archaeology Department of Sri Lanka has few divers (some are qualified others not) at Maritime Archaeology Unit, Galle, Sri Lanka Navy (SLN) has provided support in terms of divers, boats, diving equipments in big way in all successful underwater archaeology projects. The last being the Galle Harbour project 1992, which was launched to recover what ever possible artifacts from 25 historical (more than 100 years old) Maritime Archaeological sites within the Galle Harbour, prior to commencement of Galle Harbour Expansion Project dredging work.

A separate Maritime Archaeology Museum was established in Galle Fort in 1993 (later damaged during Tsunami disaster in 2004) and whatever possible artifacts from wrecks in Galle Harbour were recovered. However delay in commencement of proposed Galle Harbour expansion project has reduced the importance of this Maritime Archaeology in Galle. Excavation of VOC ship ‘Avondster’ (which was sunk in 1659) was the highlights of this Galle Harbour project.
       
History of Maritime Archaeology in Sri Lanka
It was in 1962 – 1963 period that Dr. Arthur C Clarke pointed out to then Commissioner of Archaeology Dr L E Godakumubura, that there was high potential in investigating the area around the Great and Little Basses reefs of the South-East coast of Sri Lanka. Until the two Light Houses, Great Basses and Little Basses were built and commissioned by British rulers in 1870 under the Imperial Light House service, this navigationally hazardous region (due to coral reef approx 6 to 7 miles away from main land  Sri Lanka) interrupted number of voyages of ships on famous ‘Silk Route’.
       
Location of Great Basses and Little Basses Light Houses south East of Sri Lanka
   
       
 
 
       
The area of the Great and Little Basses was known to the Chinese Navigators as the ‘Iron Pincer Island’. Their knowledge of this hazardous region is well illustrated in the Navigational pattern followed by Cheng Ho in the first decade of the fifteenth century. The Navigational route was such that these Chinese sailors move along the latitude directly in line with either Adams Peak or ‘Namunukula’ mountains (approaching from East, crossing Bay of Bengal) and when the ships were within a defined distance from the shore-line of Sri Lanka, they move directly Southwards at right angles to their path. Having covered known distance and thereby avoiding the Great and Little Basses reefs, the ships once again traversed Westwards on a parallel latitude.
       
 
 
 
Chinese Navigator’s path to avoid Basses Reefs
 
       

The Persians referred to these hidden rocks as being magnetic. The ‘Arabian Nights’ in their fairytale descriptions mentioned how the nails of the wooden ships were attracted towards the magnetic rocks and how the ships burst asunder. These poetic presentations reflect a prevailing danger centering on the Great Basses and Little Basses.

Until the Lighthouses were established by Imperial Lighthouse Service of UK in 1870, on this deadly reefs away from Sri Lankan main land, number of ships ran aground and perished. Archaeology Department of Sri Lanka has found difficult to protect these valuable maritime Archaeological site due to the simple reason that they do not have sufficient maritime resources (boats and diving equipments) and personnel to protect them. Now, the Sri Lanka Navy is playing major role in protecting these sites. Our waters in Sri Lanka have a rich repository of cultural heritage. These forgotten treasures are vital to understanding our world history, in particular how people interacted economically and culturally in the past. Being an Island nation situated in East-West shipping route Sri Lanka has been famous host for ships visiting our ancient ports of Godawaya, Galle, Colombo and Trincomallee.  

The geographical and geological condition of the area around the Great and Little  Basses resulted in many unknown sailors going down with their ships and their belongings in these treacherous waters. Thus, there is a rich heritage culture under the sea resting among these outcrops of rocks. Even though Department of Archaeology in 1963 – 1964 period took initiative to declared the sea bed surrounding the Great and Little Basses an Archaeological reserve, it has never completes the legislation process. Therefore, as the sole guardians of Sri Lankan seas, SLN has a major role to play to protect these sites. The action plan for such policing work, SLN has legislative authority to catch and prosecute persons who damage these sites.      

Sri Lanka has three sorts of legislation relevant to the protection of the underwater cultural heritage.

First, there is a heritage – related legislation. The earliest was the Treasure Trove Ordinance 1887 and 1891, now part of Antiquities Ordinance, which asserts the principle of state control of treasure found on private land if that treasure was made over the 100 years ago. The offence is concealing treasure, not finding treasure. What is important when you’re find it is how you record it and how you report it.

Second, there is the Antiquities Ordinance No 9 of 1940, as amended time to time. The ordinance regulates any intervention in or destruction, despoiling and removal of artifacts from any archaeological site. The Archaeological Department of Sri Lanka has existed since 1890, responsible for all tangible evidence of human activity. In 1998, it was given responsibility over Archaeological activity in the territorial seas, so the Department follows the same Archaeological principles on land and at sea. 1998 amendments extended to the territorial sea and made Archaeological impact assessment (AIA) and survey compulsory. However, no proper AIA was done on Basses area, due to lack of diving personnel / equipments by Archaeology Department of Sri Lanka.

Finally there is the legislation directly on underwater cultural heritage. This is now includes the Antiquities Ordinance, specially its 1998 amendments, UNESCO heritage instruments, the UN Convention on Law of the Sea 1983 and International Council on Moments and Sites (ICOMOS) guidelines.

However, there is a draft legislation, protection of the Maritime Heritage act. Ministries of Fisheries and Cultural Affairs (NARA comes under Fisheries, and Archaeology comes under Cultural Affairs) acting together and will create a Maritime Cultural Authority whose principal functions will be the control, management, protection and preservation of Maritime Cultural Heritage of Sri Lanka.

It will be headed by Director General of Archaeology with collaboration of the Director of National Museums, Director of National Archives, the Chairman NARA, the Ministries of Fisheries, Coast Conservation, Foreign Affairs, Defence, Shipping, Tourism, Environment, Science and Technology. The principal receiver of wrecks, who works under the Merchant Shipping Act, will also be represented as well as the UNESCO National Commission and five members of public who will be people of knowledge.

The SLN will take an active role in this proposed Maritime Cultural Heritage Authority. The SLN initiative to pool the resources and setup a project at Basses reefs will be able to regulate and protect underwater cultural heritage of Sri Lanka.

The sites inspected by Sri Lanka Navy Diving expeditions during this inter-monsoon period ( Jan – Feb 2009) as follows,
         
a.
Bottle Wreck at Great Basses Reef
    Mr. Peter Throckmorton and Dr. Arthur C. Clarke found this wreck of the early British period, a ship obviously docked at Galle in its eastwards passage and collected a consignment of soda bottles from firm by the name Clark and Company, which had supplied pointed-bottom soda bottles, which were in thousands few years back.

However today, only very few bottles remaining and all other bottles taken away by treasure hunters and area is damaged by dynamite fishing. The large anchor and cannons of this wreck also now in danger of removed by treasure hunters. Some of the treasure hunters has left their spikes also underwater to come back on another day for the work.
         
   
 
   
Bottle wreck seen from surface (at 20 feet depth)
Bottle wreck anchor
 
         
   
 
   
Soda bottles in hemp sacks (Hemp ropes and sacks do not decay for centuries)
Treasure hunters left their spikes to come back in another day
 
         
   
 
   
More than 200 years old soda bottle recovered as a sample
Bottle made in Ceylon by Clark and company in Galle
 
         
b.
Copper Wreck at Little Basses reef
    The Dutch-origin wooden ship wreck (ship carrying brass bricks) which is situated in little basses reef also under thereat from treasure hunters. The pictures taken during inspection dive few weeks back as follows,
         
   
 
   
Beauty of Little Basses reef. Now the reef is damaged by dynamite fishing
Taking notes of copper wreck consignment which has to be protected
 
         
   
 
   
Propeller and shaft of the decayed wooden ship which carried copper bricks
Sample of a copper brick
 
         
c.
Silver Coin Wreck at Great Basses reef
    The first exposure of this country to underwater archaeology was in the very early 1960’s when a team of divers including late Rodney Jonklaas, the late Mike Wilson (later known as Swami Sivakalki) and late Vidyajyothi Dr. Arthur C. Clarke, discovered a hitherto unknown wreck in Great Basses, containing sacks of silver coins minted in Surat, India coins dated AH 1113 (AD1702). Later, historians confirmed ship was owned by Indian Mogul Emperor Aurangzeb, who ruled India from 1658 to 1707, the infamous son of Emperor Shar Jahan (who built Taj Mahal). The “Silver Coin Ship” was sailing to China from Surat, India (Ancient port North of Mumbai) for silk trade when she sank in Great Basses reef for unknown reasons. Later this wreck featured in a Sinhalese film ‘Ranmuthu Duwa’. Dr. Clarke wrote in his report to Archaeology Department in 1962/63 indicates retrieval of one British Cannon, Brass tray, Cannon balls and 350 lbs of Silver coins ( an estimated two ton of Silver not retrieved). Coins were in “1000 Coins” bags and now the bags decay and coins in “lumps” of 1000 coins each. Some of these coins were ended up in famous Smithsonian Museum in Washington DC, USA.

Even in early 2008, a keen diving tourist who has visited this site with an unauthorized diving team from Hikkaduwa (Tourist destination in South of Sri Lanka), reported to Director General of Archaeology department ‘day light looting’ of Silver coins by treasure hunters arriving from Hikkaduwa with foreign diving teams. An e-mail sent by one of the tourist who dived at this site on 13th Apr08 reported looting of this historic silver coins shipwreck. Therefore, this historic Shipwreck site will be under strict protection of Sri Lanka Navy. No person allowed to dive in this site without SLN diving supervisors.
         
   
 
   
Propeller a wreck closer to silver coin wreck (partly submerged due to sand deposit in this monsoon)
   
         
    However, this wreck is covered with sand during this inter-monsoon period and will be visible only during next inter-monsoon period (March / April 2009).

In 1986, the Post Graduate Institute of Archaeology (PGIAR) conducted first “National Archaeological Congress”. PU Weerawardena presented a paper on ‘A Theoretical Framework for Maritime Archaeology and Maritime History of Sri Lanka’. The interest generated by this paper led Professor Senake Bandaranayake, then Director PGIAR to call an informal meeting of divers, Archaeologists and enthusiasts from other disciplines to formulate an action plan. In 1988, Maritime Heritage Trust (MHT) convened a one-day seminar exclusively on this action plan. Dr Clarke and Mike Wilson were among the participants where Wilson in a paper entitled ‘ Sri Lankan Underwater Archaeology-Early years’ said, referring to the Great Basses wreck, “It was on one of these expeditions when I was alone …… that I found two wrecks on same day, one of which has been carrying Silver coins, how many I have no idea. That I must tell you, frankly that on the first discovery my thoughts turned at once to its protection as an Archaeological site; a site of future Archaeological importance. Like Arthur (C. Clarke ) and Rodney (Jonklass) I really believe that future generation of Sri Lankan Archaeologists would include underwater Archaeology in widening spectrum of their discipline”
         
“That generation is seated here, now among us, in truth, laying the groundwork of the future of submarine Archaeology in Sri Lanka.

This ‘Silver coin ship’ is a real attraction for keen divers and senseless treasure hunters. Therefore, it is paramount important for SLN to protect it for future generation.
         
d.
Ancient harbour site at Godawaya –
    Godawaya, the village south of Ambalantota, where Walawe river falls in to sea few centuries ago (now the river has changed its flow and falls in to the sea at Ambalantota) is a historic site. The findings and excavations at ruins of ancient harbour and stone pillared dock will bring new light to the Sri Lankan Maritime Heritage. The ancient wreck at 2 ½ nautical miles South of Godawaya is laying at 100 feet depth. The findings of ancient clay pots in this site may change the Maritime History of Sri Lanka. This pot is presently examine by marine archaeologist who will carry out the “carbon testing”, the latest scientific method of finding age of archaeological artifacts. The correct age of this pot may indicate us the Sri Lankan Naval traditions 2500 years back.
         
   
 
   
Godawaya river mouth
Head Quarters of ancient harbour controller (the Commander Southern Naval Area then ? ) at Godawaya
 
         
   
 
   
Wreck found at 2 ½ N.M. from land at depth of 100 feet
Clay pot (suppose to be at least 2000 years old) found in the wreck
 
         
   
 
   
Recovering sample of clay pot
   
         
Action Plan
  Following action implemented to protect these historic shipwreck sites under Naval Supervision. Local Police and Archaeological Department were informed that SLN approval is required for any diving expedition in Basses reefs.

Foreign and local diving expeditions allowed only under Naval supervision to ensure no treasure hunting. A fee be charged by SLN for such services.

SLN has marked the wreck areas with buoys and allow only the underwater photography in these areas. Supervising of  diving expeditions will be done by retired SLN divers, who are well trained and experience. It is important to note that the visibility in water in basses reef is extremely good during inter monsoon periods. Therefore, even supervising dives from a boat also possible. Some photographs attached to this article were taken from surface, when visibility was excellent; more than 100 feet from top.

These wrecks are graves of gallant sailors who sailed in our waters and who perished with their ships; whatever the nationalities they are. Therefore we have a moral obligation to protect these graves from treasure hunters, who disturb and damage these graves.

Carry out above diving operations will be done under direct supervision of Commander Southern Naval Area.

Arrest of all personnel carry out dynamite fishing already initiated and  awareness programme for local fishermen at Kirinda area was under taken by SLN.

Dive charter operators are a group who likely to gain considerable financial benefit from this progressive programme and once convinced of its merits, would become strong advocates of protection of these historic shipwreck sites. If sites can be protected and made available for operators to take their dive groups to visit, then they are likely to increase their business. SLN will play the role of Policing these sites.

The control of these diving expeditions will be done at Kirinda, the closest point of land to Basses reef. Naval detachment Kirinda has sufficient space, basic facilities (electricity, Fresh water supply and good road network) required for further expansion and development of diving station. Souvenir shops (which sale replicas of Basses lighthouses / coins) which will be located closer to proposed diving station will also earn considerable amount of money for the country.

These diving expeditions are possible only during inter-monsoon periods (Feb-May and Aug-Sept). Therefore, it will be easy for SLN to plan and execute these tasks (maintaining diving station, supervising, control and provide boats/diving equipments).

In Australia, on its most popular shipwreck dive, S S Yongala in Great Barrier Reef,  surface markings has been installed. This site gets about 10,000 dives a year. Similar potential is available in Basses Reef in Sri Lanka. Wreck diving community in the world will able to carry out very interesting wreck dives in Basses reef during diving seasons and enjoy hospitality of Island nation of Sri Lanka.
         
End Notes
  1. Finishing the Interrupted Voyage – papers of the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Workshop on the 2001 convention on the protection of the Underwater Cultural Heritage.
  2. Maritime Archaeology and Long-range History by Professor Senake Bandaranayake.
  3. The First Steps in Underwater Archaeology in Sri Lanka – Roland Silva.
  4. Introduction to Maritime Archaeology in Sri Lanka – LCdr(Retd) Somasiri Devendra.
  5. Maritime Archaeology in Sri Lanka – The Galle Harbour project 1992 published by Post Graduate Institute of Archaeology - University of Kelaniya.
  6. Maritime Archaeology in a development nation : The case of Sri Lanka – LCdr(Rted)Somasiri Devendra, Mohan Abeyrathne and Saman De Silva.
  7. Avondster – Excavation report of the VOC ship Avondster in Galle Harbour – Published by Centre for International Heritage Activities